Food Forest Collecting, Saving, Storing and Packaging Seeds

Food Forest

We are getting a LOT of interest on our teaching food forest project. Lots of suggestions, questions etc. We love it! Teaching is what CMNC is all about! So today we will address collecting, saving, storing and packaging seeds. This is a very detailed process that can be species specific. It is also one of my favorite parts.

A bit of information first- For seeds to store properly they need to undergo desiccation (a certain % of lost or drawn out moisture). The amount of moisture that a seed can lose and still be viable (sprout and live), varies. For instance, orthodox seeds can survive storage as low as 1-2% total moisture content, though long-term storage at 3-7% is usually suggested. Many horticultural and agricultural varieties are in this category, grains, beans and peas, like the cowpeas shown in this post. Recalcitrant seeds however, need to retain more moisture in storage to maintain viability, 20-40%. Examples of this type of seeds include some fruit trees, including two of my favorites, like mangoes and avocados, oak trees and even coffee. Sub/tropical fruits often have recalcitrant seeds.

Food Forest: Cowpeas

But today I’m going to talk about these cowpeas, a variety of the species vigna unguiculata which are a legume. High in protein and fiber, they are healthy for us and some animals. The symbiotic relationship that they have with certain bacteria in the soil they inhabit makes them beneficial as atmospheric “nitrogen fixers” and stabilizers. Planting legumes such as these also improves the soil quality. So, not only are they good for us, but they are good for the environment in the area they grow in. This is especially true if no chemicals are used in their growth and if plant remains are allowed to decompose after harvest and death of the plant.

Now you have a bit of general information and the “why” regarding our growth of this specific plant.

In the pictures you will see a LOT about  cowpeas, also known as black eyed peas. These came from previous harvests from Mr Noah’s other gardens (yes, believe it or not, he has had and still has several others of these elsewhere.) The bloom, leaves, sprouts, pods and graduated seed colors are from the one here at CMNC.

When seed gathering is solely left to my personal discretion, I choose to allow the pod of the legume to fully ripen and dry on the plant if possible. This obviously is not an option for plants like tomatoes, where the fruit would fall off. If it’s a first time or small yield I will sometimes put a small mesh bag over the developing pod to protect it from insects and other animals that would like to eat it. Since we have so many cowpeas this is not necessary. When I harvest dry pods I bring them in and open them. The pod which consists of the dried carpal and valves, is discarded and used for soil enrichment or even animal feed in some cases. I’ll go into pod anatomy in another post, but for now, all organic matter except the seed is sorted out.

Once the seeds are separated from all other organic material, I inspect them for water content, visible damage from animals and insects, molds, pathogens etc. Damaged seeds are cast off for animals or compost as is appropriate. When I’m given seeds, they are inspected the same way.

Food Forest: Seeds

Next, I determine what the seeds will be used for. Are we eating them? Now or later? If we or animals are eating them now, then they are prepared for that, but for today’s sake we will talk about storage.

This is where drying is particularly important, especially in the case of orthodox seeds like these. Too much moisture can cause an array of issues from bacterial, fungal and mold growth and subsequent seed to premature sprouting. Seeds should be sufficiently dried according to the specifications for their species. In these cowpeas, I picture green pod, read to eat, plump moisture filled seeds all the way to dry, storage ready seeds. Cow peas should be hard, dry, smooth and unblemished. After opening pods, I leave the seeds near a dehumidifier that runs in my house for several days in a container with high airflow. The seeds are then transferred into glass jars with sealed lids.

This is part is important. I always add at least one desiccant packet. You can buy these or often you find them in new shoes and other boxed items. Small often white packages that say “DO NOT EAT” as if we want to snack on a packet we find in new sneakers. These packets are full of silica that pull in excess moisture. Some people use packets of dry or powdered milk as a desiccant. I have not used this method before but will be experimenting with small amounts of seeds this way, this year. If you have used it I’d love to know your results.

With the dry seeds and desiccant packets in the clean and dry glass jars, the airtight lids are put on securely. These containers are then stored in a cool, dark and dry area. They are labeled with the date, species/variety and location of collection. Initially I check them every few days. If there’s no change, once a month. I look for changes in appearance, smells or growth of any type. Seeds with damage are removed and dealt with. Sometimes immediate planting or discarding. These airtight glass containers also prevent pest infestations. Storage can be for eating or planting later. Many people use refrigerators or freezers but knowing what the species can tolerate is important here. I use a cool dark cabinet in a room with a dehumidifier that runs a few times a week. Once every 6 months or year I remove some seeds and test viability by sprouting. I try to gift, plant or trade seeds frequently.

Seeds stored properly can last for years for eating or growing. It takes some trial and error to get the hang of it. A PMB moisture analyzer can be helpful but expensive.

Interesting fact, the oldest seed ever successfully sprouted was a date palm found at an archaeological excavation site. It was 2,000 years old!

We have healthy cowpea seeds and other varieties for sale or trade, weekends in the Welcome Center.

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